Founded in the 9th century, Fez is the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities and its spiritual capital. Its medina, Fez el-Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the largest car-free urban area in the world: some 9,000 alleys where donkeys still carry the goods. Here is how to visit the Fez medina without getting lost… or getting lost just enough.
Bab Bou Jeloud, the blue gate
The visit almost always starts at Bab Bou Jeloud, the famous gate covered with blue zellige tiles on the outside and green on the medina side. Behind it open the two main streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira, which lead down to the heart of the city.
The highlights of Fez el-Bali
- Bou Inania madrasa: a 14th-century Koranic school with exquisite stucco, cedar wood and zellige.
- Al Quaraouiyine mosque-university: founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihriya, considered the oldest university still operating in the world (entry for Muslims only, but you can glimpse the courtyard from the doors).
- Attarine madrasa, a jewel of Marinid art, right next door.
- Seffarine square, where coppersmiths hammer away.
- The mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, founder of the city.
The Chouara tanneries
You cannot miss the Chouara tanneries, the most famous in Morocco. From the terraces of the leather shops, you look down on the dye pits where craftsmen work the hides as in the Middle Ages. Go in the morning, when the colours are brightest; you will be given a sprig of mint against the smell.
Where to see Fez from above
At the end of the day, climb up to the Marinid tombs or the Borj Nord fort: the view takes in the whole medina, its minarets and flat roofs. It is the moment when the call to prayer echoes from one hill to the next.
Eating in Fez
Fez is Morocco’s food capital. Try pastilla, harira and mrouzia: our tips in pastilla and Fez cuisine, or learn to make them in our Moroccan cooking class in Fez. To go further, read our article on the 10 Moroccan dishes to try.
Our tips for visiting the medina
- Hire an official guide for the first half-day: the medina is a real maze, and a guide takes you into places you would never find alone.
- Wear comfortable shoes: the alleys are cobbled and steep.
- Make way for donkeys and carts when you hear “balak!” (watch out!).
- Allow at least two days in Fez, or combine it with Meknes, Volubilis and Rabat on our 7-day imperial cities tour.
To extend your stay: discover our day trips from Fez (Meknes, Volubilis, Ifrane) and our Fez to Merzouga desert tour itinerary.
Fez is also the ideal starting point for the Sahara and for Chefchaouen, the blue pearl of the Rif, four hours away.
